Author: Tim Grey

Today’s Question: You’ve talked about resetting preferences in Photoshop as a way to resolve unusual problems, and I’m having just such an issue. However, I’m struggling to reset by holding down the Ctrl+Alt+Shift buttons while launching Photoshop. Is there an easier way to reset preferences?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can very easily reset preferences by clicking the “Reset Preferences On Quit” button on the General tab of the Preferences dialog.

More Detail: Resetting the preferences in Photoshop can help resolve odd issues, such as crashes, weird interface displays, or other unusual symptoms. The way I describe it is that whenever you feel that Photoshop isn’t behaving as it is supposed to, there’s a good chance that resetting the preferences will provide a solution.

Until somewhat recently it could be a little challenging to reset preferences in Photoshop. You needed to hold the Ctrl+Alt+Shift keys on Windows or the Command+Option+Shift keys on Macintosh while Photoshop was starting up. On Windows in particular you needed to make sure to press and hold these keys right after launching, not before launching, which added a degree of difficulty.

Fortunately, Adobe added a button for resetting preferences in the Preferences dialog. To get started go to the menu and on Windows choose Edit > Preferences > General or on Macintosh choose Photoshop > Preferences > General. That will take you to the General tab of the Preferences dialog, where you’ll find a button labeled “Reset Preferences On Quit”.

Click that “Reset Preferences On Quit” button and click OK in the confirmation dialog. Then click OK to close the Preferences dialog and quit Photoshop. The preferences will be reset without any further prompting when you next launch Photoshop.

Keep in mind that resetting the preferences will reset all of the settings within the Preferences dialog to their default options and will also reset the color management settings within the Color Settings dialog. Therefore, after resetting preferences you’ll want to be sure to review the settings in both Preferences and Color Settings to configure based on your preferred settings.

Today’s Question: In September 2021 you wrote about the Apple M1 processor in your MacBook Pro. Are you still pleased with it? Is it possible to give us an update? Has the first M1 been replaced recently?

Tim’s Quick Answer: I am still very happy with the performance of my MacBook Pro with the M1 processor, and since that time new models have been released (https://bhpho.to/3orGUoK) which offer some good improvements.

More Detail: I have been very impressed with the improved performance provided by the Apple M1 processor compared to the Intel processors used in previous models of Apple computers. The newest models feature some additional improvements, including more ports for connecting peripherals.

I was having some problems with my previous Intel-based MacBook Pro, which led me to upgrade to an M1-based MacBook Pro a bit earlier than I had intended. This provided a good opportunity to do some hands-on testing with the M1 processor, but it also meant I was impacted by some of the reduced specifications, such as only having two USB-C ports on my MacBook Pro, and no HDMI connector (an adapter must be used instead).

The newest MacBook Pro models include improved performance with updated processors. Perhaps more important in my view however is the addition of more ports. The newer models include three USB-C ports, a dedicated HDMI port, and a built-in SD card reader.

So, I most certainly do recommend the latest updated MacBook Pro computers, which are the “Late 2021” models. You can find the details of the 14-inch model that is nicely equipped here:

https://bhpho.to/3orGUoK

Today’s Question: When travelling, I create a temporary Lightroom catalog. However, I miss all my hierarchical and well-structured keywords. Is there a way to transfer my “desktop” keywords to a travel catalog, so that I don’t risk making duplicates or otherwise to mess up with my keyword hierarchy?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, indeed, you can export your Keyword List from your primary Lightroom Classic catalog and then import that list into your traveling catalog.

More Detail: In Lightroom Classic all of the keywords you have added to photos for the current catalog are displayed on the Keyword List on the right panel in the Library module. That list of keywords can be exported from Lightroom Classic and then imported into another catalog so the same keywords will be available for adding to photos in that catalog.

The first step is to export the list of keywords. To do so, in the Library module, go to the menu and choose Metadata > Export Keywords. In the Export Keywords dialog navigate to a convenient location to save the keyword list and update the filename if you’d like. Click Save to save the exported keyword list.

You can then copy that exported keyword list to another computer that you’ll use when traveling, for example. In the catalog that you want to have the same keywords available in, go back to the menu in the Library module and choose Metadata > Import Keywords. Select the file from the keyword export and click the Choose button. This will cause the full keyword list to be imported into the current catalog, so that your keywords will be available in that catalog.

Today’s Question: I have an SSD that houses much of my photo collection in the Lightroom Classic catalog (approx. 44,000 images). This drive is not always plugged in to my laptop; rather I plug it in weekly to make sure it is backed up to Backblaze. When the SSD is not plugged in and I want to look at any of the older files in the catalog, many of the previews do not show up [appearing as blank gray thumbnails]. What is your recommended preview format in Lightroom Classic? Is it possible to redo the previews after photos have been imported so all previews are of the same format?

Tim’s Quick Answer: I generally recommend generating Standard previews in Lightroom Classic, though in this particular case you may want to opt for the 1:1 (full resolution) preview option. You can generate those previews at any time using the commands found on the Library > Previews menu.

More Detail: Once your photos are imported into your Lightroom Classic catalog there are two options for previews in the context of the Library module. Those options are Standard previews and 1:1 previews.

The 1:1 previews are generated at the full resolution of the source images. For Standard previews you can adjust the size and quality settings on the File Handling tab of the Catalog Settings dialog. I generally recommend using the Auto option for Standard Preview Size and the Medium option for Preview Quality. These settings provide a good balance between image quality and the amount of hard drive space consumed by the previews.

To generate the previews at any time you can select a group of photos and then go to the menu and choose Library > Previews followed by either “Build Standard-Sized Previews” or “Build 1:1 Previews”.

The Standard previews are roughly the resolution of your monitor display, so they work well for general browsing. If you want to be able to zoom in on the photos when the hard drive is disconnected, you will want to generate the 1:1 previews instead. Otherwise, for images that only have a Standard preview, zooming in will result in a preview of reduced quality due to relatively low resolution.

In the Develop module the preview for each image is generated on the fly based on the source image file and the adjustments you have applied. This is therefore the best way to review images in terms of optimal image quality. It is possible to generate Smart Previews for the images, so that you can work in the Develop module even when the hard drive is disconnected. However, this can consume considerable space on the internal hard drive, so unless there’s a compelling reason to generate Smart Previews I recommend simply connecting the hard drive when you want to work in the Develop module.

Today’s Question: I had a complete hard drive crash and had to replace the hard drive in my laptop, my photography computer. I was able to retrieve the data (via Carbonite). I am replacing the whole computer. Do I start a new Lightroom Classic catalog, or somehow copy and use the one from before the crash?

Tim’s Quick Answer: I strongly recommend recovering from the backup of your most recent Lightroom Classic catalog, rather than starting over with a new catalog, in order to preserve all of the information about your photos.

More Detail: When starting off with a new computer (or even just a new hard drive) I recommend transferring your existing Lightroom Classic catalog to that new computer or drive, rather than creating a new catalog. The only reason I would create a new catalog is if the previous catalog had been corrupted and I didn’t have a good recent backup.

If you have turned on the “Automatically write changes into XMP” checkbox on the Metadata tab of the Catalog Settings dialog in Lightroom Classic, the metadata fields represented by established metadata standards will be preserved alongside the original photos. That would include things like star ratings, keywords, and even the adjustments from the Develop module.

However, there are a variety of features that are only included in the catalog, and that would be lost if you started over with a new catalog. That includes collections, virtual copies, the History list in the Develop module, pick and reject flags, and more.

Therefore, if at all possible I highly recommend recovering from a catalog backup rather than starting with a fresh catalog. Having said that, if for some reason it was necessary to start with a new catalog you could import all existing photos into that catalog using the “Add” option. If you had the XMP option enabled, the majority of metadata for your photos would come along with those photos as part of the import process.

Today’s Question: Is there any way to make the Camera Raw Filter in Photoshop automatically mirror the way I have things set up in Lightroom? Everything is there, but it’s often in a different place or has a different look. I would like it if opening the Camera Raw filter in Photoshop was virtually indistinguishable from Lightroom.

Tim’s Quick Answer: Unfortunately, no, it is not possible to change the Camera Raw interface match Lightroom Classic, as it is designed by Adobe to match the interface for the cloud-based version of Lightroom.

More Detail: I often explain that Camera Raw and the Develop module in Lightroom Classic are “the same”, meaning that feature all the exact same adjustments that are compatible with each other. For example, if you had processed a raw capture in Lightroom Classic and exported with the “Original” option for the Image Format, you would end up with a copy of the source raw capture and an XMP “sidecar” file that contained metadata including the Develop module adjustments. If you then opened that raw capture via Camera Raw in Photoshop, the image would look exactly as you had adjusted it in Lightroom Classic.

However, while the adjustments are the same for Camera Raw and Lightroom Classic, the interface is quite different between the two. That is because the interface for the cloud-based version of Lightroom is different from Lightroom Classic, and Camera Raw in Photoshop is designed to match the cloud-based version of Lightroom.

I’ll admit that Adobe seems incredibly determined to confuse photographers when it comes to the entire Lightroom ecosystem, and it is certainly frustrating that this confusion exists. But despite these issues, I do consider Lightroom Classic to be the better choice for most photographers compared to the cloud-based version of Lightroom.

The Camera Raw filter in Photoshop, by the way, is the focus of an article in the current February 2022 issue of Pixology magazine. Pixology magazine is included in the GreyLearning Ultimate Bundle (http://timgrey.me/atg99bundle), but is also available as a standalone subscription here:

https://www.greylearning.com/courses/pixology-magazine

Today’s Question: I have a question about printing from Lightroom Classic. I get more consistent good results using color management “Managed by Printer” versus using ICC profiles for specific paper/printer combinations. Should I just stick with this since it’s “working”, or could I get even better results figuring out why the ICC profiles don’t work as well?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Ultimately you can use either approach to color management that provides great prints. The use of ICC profiles should enable the most accurate results, but if you’re not finding that to be the case then using the printer controls is a reasonable workaround.

More Detail: Generally speaking, you’ll produce the most accurate prints by obtaining (or creating) a custom ICC profile for the specific printer, ink, and paper combination you’ll be using to print a photo. There are tools available for building your own profiles, but you can also generally get good ICC profiles through the website of the manufacturer of the paper you’re using. When using an ICC profile, you need to disable color management with the printer driver to avoid a situation where color compensations are being applied twice, resulting in inaccurate color.

If you use a custom ICC profile and don’t get accurate results, it is worth confirming that all your workflow settings are correct. For example, be sure that your monitor display is properly calibrated, that the ink nozzles on your printer aren’t clogged, that you’re using the correct profile and settings within Lightroom Classic, and that you’ve disabled color management in the printer driver.

If you’re not able to get good results using an ICC profile, you can instead set Lightroom Classic to “Managed by Printer”. You will then need to configure the optimal settings in the printer driver to ensure an accurate print. In most cases you’ll also find that the printer driver includes custom adjustment controls so you can compensate for a print that isn’t completely accurate. Generally speaking, those same settings will then work well for any photo printed with the same printer, ink, and paper combination, so once you’ve found good settings your workflow will still be relatively streamlined.

Ultimately, if you’re able to achieve good prints without difficulty, then I’d say the workflow you’re using is working. I prefer that a color-managed workflow for printing involve a custom ICC profile, but what matters most is a print you’re happy with.

You can learn more about color management in my video course called “Color Management for Photographers”, which you can get for half of by using this link to get started:

https://www.greylearning.com/courses/color?coupon=color

Today’s Question: I’m coming back from overseas travel where I forgot to change my camera’s time, while the time on my iPhone automatically changed. Now my photos are all mixed up. Is there a way, in Lightroom, to automatically set -5 hours to a batch of photos took with my camera?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can use the Edit Capture Time command in Lightroom Classic to update the capture time by a set number of hours very easily for a batch of photos.

More Detail: The first step is to select only the photos you need to update the capture time for. In this case, for example, only photos from the camera (not from the smartphone) need to be updated. You can use the Library Filter bar in the Library module to filter by camera model and then select all of those photos.

With all the photos that require a time correction selected, make sure you are in the grid view (thumbnails) display, not the loupe view. This will enable you to update all the selected photos at once very easily, not just the single photo shown in the loupe view, for example.

Next, go to the menu and choose Metadata > Edit Capture Time. In the Edit Capture Time dialog set the Type of Adjustment option to “Shift by a set number of hours (time zone adjust)”. In the New Time section, you can then select the number of hours you need to adjust by, which in this example is negative five (-5) hours).

Click the Change All button and the capture time for all the selected photos will be updated. Note that while you can’t use the “Undo” command to undo the time zone adjustment, you could always apply a corrective second adjustment if an error was made. For example, if you later realized that you needed to adjust the capture time by negative four hours rather than negative five hours, you could apply another correction of positive one (+1) hour to correct the photos.

Note that this topic was covered in greater detail in the November 2021 issue of Pixology magazine, which you can learn more about here:

https://www.greylearning.com/courses/pixology-magazine

Today’s Question: Regarding the question [from Monday, January 10th] dealing with the 8-bit versus 16-bit bug, I just checked and when I open an image from Lightroom Classic to Photoshop it opens in 16-bits per channel. I see that you did state the Camera Raw workflow [was affected by this bug] but I wanted to make sure it didn’t also happen in a Lightroom Classic to Photoshop workflow as well.

Tim’s Quick Answer: The bug referenced in an earlier Ask Tim Grey eNewsletter only relates to Camera Raw in the context of Photoshop. If you send a photo from Lightroom Classic to Photoshop the bit depth is determined by the setting established in Preferences, with a default of 16-bits per channel.

More Detail: In the Ask Tim Grey eNewsletter from January 10th (https://asktimgrey.com/2022/01/10/bit-depth-bug-in-camera-raw/) I referenced a bug in Camera Raw that causes the workflow settings to reset to 8-bit per channel for the bit depth, rather than 16-bits per channel. This issue does not affect images sent to Photoshop from Lightroom Classic using the Photo > Edit In command on the menu.

Instead, Lightroom Classic sets the bit depth for derivative images created with the “Edit In” command based on a setting in Preferences, which defaults to 16-bit per channel mode.

To check this setting you can bring up the Preferences dialog, which can be access from the Edit menu on Windows or the Lightroom Classic menu on Macintosh. Within the Preferences dialog go to the External Editing tab. At the top of that tab you’ll find settings specific to Photoshop, including the bit depth setting, color space, and more.

You can also configure other external editors, such as for plug-ins that support Lightroom Classic. For each external editor that you use you can configure individual settings for how the derivative image should be created.