Ask Tim Grey

Today’s Question: How far apart, physically, from each other do you keep the two backup drives?

Tim’s Quick Answer: I recommend keeping backup copies of your data at two different locations, though for my local backups I do keep all copies at my office when I’m not traveling. I supplement this local backup, however, with an online backup using Backblaze (https://timgrey.me/onlinebackup).

More Detail: Under ideal circumstances I recommend keeping copies of your local backups of photos and other important data at two separate physical locations. In practice, of course, this is not always particularly feasible.

For my local backups I do keep the original and both backup copies in separate rooms at my office, though I do have the partial comfort of the fact that the building is protected by fire sprinklers. I should keep an additional local copy at my storage unit across town, but the reality is that I don’t.

When I’m traveling (which is significantly less than it used to be due to the pandemic) I carry the original and one backup for my key data, leaving another backup at my home office.

It is less than ideal to keep all backup copies at the same physical location in terms of the potential for losing all data should the location itself be seriously damaged or destroyed. While I should add an additional backup at a different location, I instead supplement my local backups with an online backup using Backblaze (https://timgrey.me/onlinebackup).

Admittedly, at times the online backup will lag behind my local backup since the online backup by its nature requires an internet connection. However in practice since I’m not adding a significant amount of data at any given time and my internet connection is quite fast, my online backup is able to keep up with my ongoing data production. The initial backup with Backblaze can require considerable time, but ongoing backup updates generally won’t take much time at all.

Using a third-party service for a remote backup isn’t quite perfect in terms of not being able to personally manage that data storage, but in the context of my overall backup workflow I’m comfortable with the system I’ve implemented. After all, so far (knock on wood) the only reason I’ve had to recover from a backup is that a drive has failed (multiple times) or because I’ve accidentally deleted files (this is rare, fortunately).

At some point if I do experience a catastrophic data loss at home, I’m sure I’ll get more serious about maintaining backup copies at multiple physical locations that I directly control. But for now I feel that my backup workflow is working very well for me.

Today’s Question: I’m in the process of creating my first GoodSync backups of both my C drive [with the operating system] and my internal Photos drive (E). If I need to restore my main hard drive as you described in the Sept. 27 newsletter, is it really as simple as plugging in the backup drive? Another colleague said the backup was not a bootable drive, meaning it would not allow me to start the machine. Thanks for any clarification.

Tim’s Quick Answer: Recovering from a failed bootable hard drive would not be as simple as simply installing the backup drive in place of the failed drive if you had used software such as GoodSync (http://timgrey.me/greybackup) to create a synchronized backup. For secondary drives (such as the E: drive in this example) the synchronized backup would provide an easy recovery solution.

More Detail: If the bootable hard drive that contains the operating system were to fail (on either a Windows or Macintosh computer) recovery would not be as simple as replacing the failed drive with the backup drive. Rather, a recovery process would be necessary, which could involve installing the operating system fresh. This is something I would recommend in any event because the failed drive could have created corruption issues that would be reflected in the backup as well.

You can recover from a full system backup using tools provided as part of the operating system. For Windows that means using the Backup and Restore feature in the System and Maintenance section of Control Panel. For Macintosh users that means maintaining a Time Machine backup of the system hard drive. In both cases these backups can streamline the recovery process, but that will still involve an actual restore process rather than just swapping out a hard drive.

For non-bootable hard drives that only contain user data, a GoodSync backup will indeed enable you to simply swap out the failed drive with a backup drive, and then make sure the replacement drive has the same drive letter (Windows) or volume label (Macintosh) so that data will still be found where it is expected for software such as Lightroom Classic.

You can still use GoodSync to back up your personal data on the system hard drive, such as the documents, pictures, and downloads folders. However, I do not recommend backing up the entire system hard drive with GoodSync. In fact, in the latest version of GoodSync in won’t even allow you to create a backup that includes all system files.

So, for data-only drives you can create a backup that is a clone of the original drive using GoodSync, and recovering from a failure will be simple. For the bootable system drive you can back up your personal data, and recovery would involve copying that data again to the system drive after you have recovered the operating system and applications to that drive.

Today’s Question: I have a TV set up as a second display that I sometimes use when editing photos, but the quality of the TV display for editing is poor. Are there any products you know of that can function as a decent monitor for photo editing and also be used as a television?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can treat a computer monitor and television as being the exact same thing as long as the necessary features are included for both ways you intend to use the display.

More Detail: From the standpoint of the display itself, a computer monitor and television can be thought of as being exactly the same type of device. The real difference relates to connections and features. In other words, one display can be used as both a computer monitor and a television if you buy the right display.

On the computer side things tend to be a bit simpler. You just need to be sure the monitor includes an input that will be supported by your computer. For most recent model computers that means an HDMI connection, which is available in the vast majority of displays sold as computer monitors or televisions. If your computer only supports something other than HDMI, just be sure the display you purchase includes a supported input type.

There are some other features you may want to have included in the display in order to use it as a television. For example, you might want to have built-in speakers so you can listen to television without the need for an audio accessory.

You may also need the display to have a coaxial input if you’re using cable for your television input. You may also need to have either an Ethernet port or WiFi support if you’ll use Smart TV features such as with online streaming services.

I think the easiest way to think of the right solution here is to purchase a television that includes an HDMI port you can use for your computer. That may mean you want a television with at least two HDMI ports, so you have a port for the television signal input as well as for the computer. Most televisions include at least two if not more HDMI ports, so this is an easy issue to solve for.

In general I would suggest getting a relatively small television for this purpose, since you’ll likely be relatively close to the display when using it as a computer monitor. That would generally mean opting for a 32-inch television, for example, though you could certainly use a larger display if you’ll be sitting a bit of a distance from it when using it with your computer.

You can find one example of a 32-inch television that supports 4K resolution and could certainly be used as both a television and monitor display here:

https://bhpho.to/3UDBDZv

Today’s Question: I am considering converting my Lightroom photographs which are largely in raw format to JPEG images and storing them on a portable hard drive. I would like to bring the folder structure with the photographs so that the hard drive contains the same description of photos that I have in Lightroom. I know I can export the photos in each folder. Can you suggest a more efficient method to achieve my goal?

Tim’s Quick Answer: While there are approaches you could use in Lightroom Classic to accomplish this goal, I think the best option is to use the “Folder Publisher” plugin created by Jeffrey Friedl, which you can find here:

http://regex.info/blog/lightroom-goodies/folder-publisher

More Detail: Lightroom Classic includes an export feature, obviously, which provides considerable flexibility in terms of creating copies of original images that are saved outside the context of your catalog. There is even an option to add the exported photos back to the catalog if you had a reason to do that.

However, the export feature in Lightroom Classic doesn’t provide a way to duplicate the existing folder structure for the exported copies of photos, other than to store all exported copies in the same folder as the original. It is possible to save photos in the original folder, so that you could even select all photos in the entire catalog and export copies in a different file format, with each exported copy being saved in the same folder as the original image.

That would work in terms of creating additional copies of your photos in the same folder structure, but would not enable you to create a separate folder structure for the exported photos that matched the folder structure of the originals but in a different storage location.

Fortunately, there is a plugin for Lightroom Classic that enables you to export photos and retain the original folder structure while saving the exported copies in a different location than the original photos, which is exactly the aim outlined in today’s question. That plugin is called “Folder Publisher”, and was created by Jeffrey Friedl, who has also created a variety of other helpful plug-ins for Lightroom Classic.

You can learn more about the “Folder Publisher” plugin here:

http://regex.info/blog/lightroom-goodies/folder-publisher

Note that this plugin uses a “donationware” license. The plugin is free to use, but after six weeks the features become restricted. You can get a full license with a donation of any amount you choose.

Today’s Question: I just upgraded my iPhone to the new iPhone 14 Pro, mainly to take advantage of the RAW image options. When I set the image size to 12 MP, I have no problem acquiring images, transferring them to Lightroom on my laptop, and then working with the images. When I switch settings to acquire a 48 MP image, the image looks fine on the phone, and it looks normal in the tiny image preview on my laptop after I airdrop the image. However, when I then open the image in either Lightroom Classic or Photoshop, the image is MUCH darker than how it appeared on my camera – at least 2 stops darker, maybe more. This is happening with every 48 MP image, but never with a 12 MP image. Help! What is happening?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can solve this issue by changing the Profile (in the Basic section of adjustments) to “Apple ProRaw”. I suspect the issue will be fixed in a future update from Adobe.

More Detail: Adobe has indicated that the iPhone 14 is not yet officially supported as a camera for Lightroom Classic or Photoshop. At the moment, iPhone 14 captures created with the raw 48-megapixel setting appear very dark in Lightroom Classic (and Photoshop). Images captured with the 12-megapixel setting appear normally.

Changing the profile to “Apple ProRaw” corrects the issue, providing correct interpretations of the iPhone 14 captures. In particular, updating the profile will correct the dark appearance of the 48-megapixel captures without changing the brightness of the 12-megapixel captures. The Profile popup is found near the top of the Basic section on the right panel in the Develop module.

Note, by the way, that you can use the automatic synchronization feature in Lightroom Classic to update all photos, whether it is for the profile as in this case or for other types of adjustments. Start by selecting the photos you want to apply the adjustment too, and then in the Develop module turn on the “Auto Sync” switch found on the left side of the Sync button at the bottom of the right panel. With that option enabled all changes made will synchronize to all selected photos.

Today’s Question: You’ve written about using a synchronization approach to backing up your photos, but what exactly is involved in recovering from such a backup when a hard drive fails?

Tim’s Quick Answer: With a backup created via synchronization, such as with the GoodSync (http://timgrey.me/greybackup) software I use and recommend, recovery can literally be as simple as using a backup drive in place of the failed original.

More Detail: Today’s question is topical for me, as I just had another hard drive fail last week. While the hard drive that failed was my primary drive for my most important data other than my photos, the hard drive failure didn’t cause me any concern at all. The only real consequence was that I needed to buy a new hard drive so I would still have two backups in addition to the primary drive.

Because I use GoodSync (http://timgrey.me/greybackup) to back up my external hard drives, each backup represents an exact match of the original data, with all files and folders in the exact same structure as on the primary drive. Therefore, when a hard drive fails, all I need to do is connect a backup drive and start using it as the primary.

If the failed drive is being used to store photos that are managed by Lightroom Classic, there is one additional step required so that the hard drive will match what Lightroom Classic is expecting. For Macintosh users that simply means changing the volume label for the hard drive to match that of the original, which can be done by simply right-clicking on the drive and choosing Rename. For Windows users you’ll need to assign the same drive letter to the new drive as had been assigned to the original drive, which can be done with Disk Management utility.

While the recovery from a backup created with software such as GoodSync is remarkably easy, it is important that you make sure to replace the failed hard drive with a new backup. I always maintain at least two backup copies of each hard drive and rotate between the backups. When a drive fails, I still have a backup, but then I buy another hard drive so I will again have two backups along with the original.

Today’s Question: I can choose to display the point of focus of an image when I am playing back the image in the camera. Is it possible to show that when viewing the image in Lightroom?

Tim’s Quick Answer: There is a plug-in for Lightroom Classic that enables you to view which focus point was used. However, this plug-in currently only supports a variety of cameras from Canon and Nikon, with some support for Sony cameras being added.

More Detail: The focus point that was active when you captured a photo is generally stored in metadata by the camera. However, you generally aren’t able to see that information later unless you’re using software provided by the camera manufacturer. Fortunately, for some cameras a plug-in for Lightroom Classic enables you to see the active focus point for your photos.

The “Show Focus Points” plug-in for Lightroom Classic is an add-on that enables you to view the focus point for supported cameras. Note that the focus points won’t be shown directly within the previews you view in Lightroom Classic, but rather will be displayed in a window when you activate the feature for a selected photo.

The plug-in currently supports a number of Canon and Nikon cameras, with support being added for some Sony cameras (currently just the Sony A77II). Hopefully the plug-in will be updated to support a wider range of cameras in the near future.

This plug-in is free to use, though you can also support the developer with a donation using a link on the downloads page. You can learn more about the “Show Focus Points” plug-in here:

https://www.lightroomfocuspointsplugin.com

Today’s Question: If I am going to be away from home for a period of time (possibly a month or more), and I use Time Machine as one of my backups on an external HD (not SSD), what is your suggestion if I don’t want to take that 10TB drive with me? I have read that those drives don’t like to be left idle.

Tim’s Quick Answer: I recommend ensuring you have a good backup left at home for any hard drives you won’t bring with you. For hard drives you will bring with you I recommend having a backup drive for each in addition to a backup left at home.

More Detail: There is nothing wrong with leaving a hard drive idle for a month or more. For traditional (non-solid state) drives there is a risk of leaving the hard drive disconnected for a very long time (such as a year or more) with no activity. But for shorter durations it is not a problem for the drive to be idle. For a Time Machine backup drive you’ll get alerts about the fact that a backup hasn’t been conducted in a while, but that isn’t a problem as long as you’re maintaining at least one ongoing backup for data security.

For an internal hard drive on a Macintosh computer the Time Machine backup is a great option. If you’ll be leaving a primary Time Machine backup drive at home you can simply travel with a smaller drive used only for backing up the internal hard drive on your laptop.

If you’ll be traveling with any external hard drives, I recommend traveling with a backup drive for each of those. I personally use GoodSync (http://timgrey.me/greybackup) to maintain a backup for these drives, where the backup is an exact copy of the primary drive.

For drives left at home I simply recommend making sure you have a good backup (or two) for those drives, along with leaving behind at least one backup drive for each drive you’ll be traveling with.

Another good supplement to a backup workflow is to maintain an online backup so you’ll have an additional offsite backup to recover from should there be a significant issue that causes you to lose multiple hard drives, including primary and backup drives. I use Backblaze (https://timgrey.me/onlinebackup) for this purpose.

The key is to make sure that you are backing up the data you’re traveling with, and that you have additional backup copies of that data left behind. In addition, you want to ensure that all drives left behind also have a good backup in place, ideally with an online backup as a supplement to local backup copies.

Today’s Question: I want to share JPEG images to the Adobe Creative Cloud that I’ve exported from Lightroom Classic. I think I need to import them into Lightroom Classic, create a collection of them, and then synchronize them to the cloud (as an album). Make sense? Also, can I rearrange the order of the photos on the cloud into a custom order?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Maybe. You may prefer to synchronize the original photos rather than import JPEG copies created from the originals. In either case, once you’ve synchronized photos to the Cloud you can create a custom sort order in the Lightroom mobile app.

More Detail: You can make selected photos in your Lightroom Classic catalog available from virtually anywhere by synchronizing them to the cloud (via Adobe Creative Cloud). The basic process involves adding photos to a collection and then enabling synchronization for that collection. The images will then be available from the Lightroom mobile app or through a web browser pointed to https://lightroom.adobe.com/.

If you exported JPEG copies of original photos and then applied various adjustments to those JPEG images, you may indeed want to import the JPEG copies into your catalog and add those versions of the images to a collection for synchronization. However, in general you may prefer to instead add the original images to the collection, assuming those represent the versions of the photos you want to share.

When you synchronize photos to the Creative Cloud from Lightroom Classic you won’t be copying the original images (such as raw captures) to the cloud. Rather, Lightroom Classic will create reduced resolution Adobe DNG copies of the images for this purpose.

Whichever images you prefer to synchronize can be added to a collection with synchronization enabled, and then representations of those photos will be available from virtually anywhere.

In the Lightroom mobile app on a smartphone or tablet you can also sort the photos in a variety of ways, including a custom sort order. When browsing your photos in the Review mode on the mobile app tap the ellipsis button (three dots) at the top-right of the interface. Choose the “Sort by” option (which will reflect the current sort order) to bring up a list of sorting options. One of those will be “Sort by Custom”, and after choosing this option you can tap the “Edit” link to the right so you can drag images around to change the order of photos, then click “Done” at the top-right to finalize that custom sort order. You can then switch between the other sort options and the Custom sort option, and the Lightroom mobile app will remember the custom sort order for the collection of photos.