Lightroom Classic Adjustments to Photoshop

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: I have quite a few layered TIFF files created via Photoshop that I subsequently applied Lightroom Classic Develop adjustments to. How do I non-destructively incorporate those Lightroom Classic adjustments into the TIFF file without destroying the Photoshop layers, so that I’m not dependent on Lightroom Classic moving forward?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can’t, at least not with this specific workflow. You would either need to apply the adjustments entirely in Photoshop or export a flattened copy of the image to preserve the adjusted version beyond Lightroom Classic.

More Detail: Part of the challenge with a workflow that involves sending images from Lightroom Classic to Photoshop is that these two applications use an entirely different approach to how adjustments are applied. Fortunately, there is a bit of a workaround that enables you to apply the same adjustments you’ll find in Lightroom Classic using Photoshop.

When you send a raw capture from Lightroom Classic to Photoshop, a new file (either TIFF or PSD based on the setting in Preferences) will be created based on the source image and the adjustments you’ve applied in the Develop module. You can then use Photoshop to add new layers and apply various adjustments to the derivative image. If you then save and close the image, the layers will be preserved with the new file alongside the source image in Lightroom Classic.

You can apply additional adjustments in Lightroom Classic to that derivative image, but you can think of them as not exactly being compatible with Photoshop. In other words, if you send the image to Photoshop using the “Edit Original” option (so that all layers are preserved) the adjustments you applied in Lightroom Classic won’t be visible while you’re working in Photoshop. Those adjustments will appear again once you’re back in Lightroom Classic.

You could use the Camera Raw Filter (found on the Filter menu) within Photoshop to apply the same adjustments found in Lightroom Classic but using Photoshop instead. However, this would require that you create a new composite layer by selecting the top layer on the Layers panel and holding the Ctrl+Alt+Shift keys on Windows or Command+Option+Shift keys in Macintosh while pressing the letter N followed by the letter E on the keyboard.

You could also convert that composite layer to a smart object if you wanted to apply the Camera Raw filter as a smart filter, but doing so would further complicate the fact that you have now hidden your original layers below the new layer being used for the Camera Raw adjustments.

So, there really isn’t an elegant way to combine adjustments from Photoshop and Lightroom Classic in this way. Keep in mind, however, that at any time you could export a copy of the derivative file in order to have a file that includes the effect of all Lightroom Classic adjustments. However, this derivative image would not include any of the Photoshop layers from the original derivative.

Risk of Deleting Smart Previews

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: Every once in a while, when going to work on an image or export it I get message (to paraphrase) that the original is not found, and do I want to locate or work with smart preview. My question is, if I delete all smart previews will these images that can’t be located be lost to me without smart previews?

Tim’s Quick Answer: If the source image can be located, then deleting the smart preview is safe. If there is a chance the original file has been lost, then the smart preview should be protected as though it was the original.

More Detail: A smart preview in Lightroom Classic is a relatively high-resolution rendering of the source image. Smart previews can be used in place of the source image file within Lightroom Classic. For example, if you have built a smart preview for an image, you can still work with that image (via the smart preview) in the Develop module even if the source file is not currently available. You can even export or share copies of the photo based on the smart preview.

The answer to today’s question depends on the reason the source file is missing. If the smart preview is being used simply as a convenience, such as so you can continue working even when an external hard drive containing the photos isn’t connected, then the smart previews can be thought of as disposable.

However, if the source files can’t be found, then the smart previews suddenly become an important alternative to the originals. If the source files had been accidentally deleted, the smart previews can still be used, and therefore should not be discarded. The smart previews will generally have a lower resolution (at about 2500 pixels on the long side) compared to the original, but reduced resolution is better than no pixels at all.

Rebuilding Previews for All Photos

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: I have the opposite problem from the question about deleting previews [in Lightroom Classic]. I have many photos for which there is only a gray thumbnail, with no preview. They get built (slowly) when I browse each folder, but is there a way to simply build previews for all images in my catalog all at once?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can generate standard previews for any photos that don’t already have them by selecting them all and then using the “Build Standard-Sized Previews” command.

More Detail: While standard previews in Lightroom Classic will be built automatically whenever you browse photos that don’t have the previews already, that can slow down the process of browsing your photos. It can therefore be helpful to build previews for all photos in the catalog if you are in a situation where not all photos have previews.

To get started, first make sure that all photos are currently available, such as by connecting any external hard drives that have photos stored on them. Then navigate to the All Photographs collection in the Catalog section of the left panel in the Library module. Next, on the Library Filter Bar above the grid view display, choose the “None” option so that no filter is set. Select all photos by choosing Edit > Select All from the menu.

With the photos selected, you can then go to the menu and choose Library > Previews > Build Standard-Sized Previews”. Lightroom Classic will then set about the task of building previews for any selected photos that don’t already have previews.

Note that this process can take considerable time, depending on how many photos you have in your catalog and the speed of the hard drive(s) on which your photos are stored. It is quite common for it to take several hours to generate all previews, or even a couple of days if you have a particularly large catalog.

Deleting Previews to Free Up Space

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: I realized that my primary hard drive was almost full, and I found that I had a large previews file for Lightroom Classic. Within the folder that contains my catalog I have a Previews lrdata file that is 79.9 GB. I also have a Smart Previews file that is 5.2 GB. I know I can build previews when I need them so how can I delete these previews to provide free space on my hard drive?

Tim’s Quick Answer: The Previews file associated with your Lightroom Classic catalog can simply be deleted if you need to recover storage space. For the Smart Previews file, you can actually use a command in Lightroom Classic to delete the Smart Previews for all photos within the catalog.

More Detail: The primary Previews file for the Lightroom Classic catalog is essentially just a cache and can be safely deleted at any time if you need to reclaim hard drive space. Just keep in mind that previews will need to be built again when you browse your photos, and those previews can only be built if the source files are available. So, for example, if you deleted the Previews file and keep your photos on an external hard drive, you would initially be unable to view the images until you connect the external hard drive. Once previews are built again you’ll be able to see photos even if the external hard drive is disconnected.

For the Smart Previews you can use the “Discard Smart Previews” command to delete Smart Previews for any photos you’d like (or for all photos in your catalog). For example, you could go to the All Photographs collection in the Catalog section of the left panel in the Library module and make sure the Library Filter Bar above the grid view is set to “None” so you’re browsing all photos. Then go to the menu and choose Library > Previews > Discard Smart Previews. Click the “Discard All” button, and the Smart Previews for all selected photos will be discarded.

Of course, as you browse your photos after discarding the standard previews, new previews will be generated. This may cause you to wonder whether it makes sense to delete the Previews file, since it will just get created again. However, unless you specifically direct Lightroom Classic to build previews for your entire catalog, previews will only be built as you browse photos. Therefore, the Previews file will be much smaller than it had been previously, and it may not grow all that quickly depending on your habits in terms of browsing photos.

Removing Metadata from Photos

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: At times I want to send an image to a publisher without including the metadata. Is there a way to delete all metadata from an image being sent from Lightroom Classic?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can exclude most metadata by exporting photos from Lightroom Classic and choosing either “Copyright Only” or “Copyright & Contact Info Only” from the Include popup in the Metadata section of the Export dialog. Similar options are available when exporting via Adobe Bridge.

More Detail: In some cases, you may want to exclude metadata when sharing photos, such as to prevent others from learning what camera equipment or settings were used, where the photo was captured, what keywords were assigned, or other details.

In the context of Lightroom Classic, you would typically create copies of images to share with others by exporting copies of the source photos. In the Export dialog you can configure the various settings, such as to make JPEG copies based on original raw captures. To limit the metadata that is included in the derivative images, choose an option from the Include popup in the Metadata section of the Export dialog. When you want to limit the metadata being included, you’ll likely want to choose either “Copyright Only” or “Copyright & Contact Info Only”.

For those not using Lightroom Classic there is a similar option to export from Adobe Bridge. First enable the Export panel if it isn’t already by going to the menu and choosing Window > Export. Drag selected images to the Custom Export option in the Export panel. In the Export dialog you can configure the settings for the copies of the photos you’ll be creating. In the Metadata section you can keep the “Include Original Metadata” checkbox turned on, but then choose either ” Copyright Only” or “Copyright & Contact Info Only” from the popup below the checkbox. Click the Start Export button when you’re ready to export the images.

Sharing images without the original metadata does involve creating copies of the source photos. But in most cases, that’s exactly what you would want to do anyway, such as to send a JPEG copy rather than an original raw capture. The key is to configure the appropriate option for excluding most metadata from the image, so the recipient will only be able to see the details you want them to be able to see.

Reasons to Bracket Exposures

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: I wonder if you could clarify the benefits of exposure bracketing. Is the benefit simply to have more options? If I take three bracketed shots and then merge those photos in Photoshop, will the result simply be the same as the middle exposure? Or is there a gain to taking and then merging bracketed shots?

Tim’s Quick Answer: There are two key reasons to bracket exposures. The first is to have an additional option in case the base exposure isn’t optimal. The second is to be able to blend exposures for a high dynamic range (HDR) result.

More Detail: Bracketing exposures simply means that rather than capturing just a single exposure, you will capture additional exposures that are either brighter or darker (or both) compared to the baseline exposure. A standard approach, for example, would be to capture both an exposure that is one stop darker and an exposure that is one stop brighter, along with the standard exposure.

One of the primary reasons photographers might bracket exposures is if they are dealing with a tricky lighting situation (such as backlighting) and they aren’t confident that they will get the exposure right. In some situations you may obviously have the time to capture a test exposure and then capture additional photos with adjustments as needed. But in many cases you may not have that flexibility. For example, with concert photography things may be changing so rapidly that if you don’t get the shot right the first time, you won’t get the shot at all.

So, bracketing exposures helps give you options so that if the baseline exposure is problematic, you have other exposures that will likely have worked out better. Note, by the way, that while bracketing with a total of three exposures is pretty standard, many cameras will enable you to automatically bracket with five, seven, or even more exposures.

The other common reason to bracket exposures is for scenes where the overall tonal range exceeds what can be captured in a single exposure. For example, when including the sun in the frame it is often impossible to capture a single exposure without clipping the highlights or the shadows (or both).

When bracketing for HDR I generally recommend separating the exposures by two stops. In many cases three exposures may be enough, but in extreme cases you may need to bracket with more exposures. The bracketed exposures can then be assembled after the capture to create a final HDR image that contains more detail than a single exposure would have been capable of. Note, by the way, that if the tonal range of the scene doesn’t exceed what your camera can capture with a single frame, there won’t be a benefit to creating an HDR image. In fact, in this situation creating an HDR image may result in more noise than would be present in a single exposure.

Changing Panel Arrangement

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: I was intrigued by your mention of “the default panel configuration” in the Develop module in Lightroom Classic. I didn’t think there was a way to change the panel configuration, but is that actually possible?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, it is possible to reconfigure all panels in Lightroom Classic by choosing which sections will be visible. For the right panel in the Develop module you can also change the order of the panel sections.

More Detail: For all modules in Lightroom Classic you can choose which panel sections you want to hide or reveal. By default all panels are revealed, but you can hide panels that you know you’ll never need to use. To do so, right-click on the header for any panel section to view a popup with all sections listed. You can choose a panel by name to turn it off or on. A checkmark icon appears to the left of panels that are currently visible, so it is easy to review the current configuration.

With the right panel in the Develop module you have even greater flexibility, in that you can change the order of the panel sections. To get started, right click on a section header on the right panel in the Develop module and choose “Customize Develop Panel” from the popup menu.

In the Customize Develop Panel dialog you can then configure the panel sections. There is a checkbox to the right of each section name, and you can turn the checkbox off to hide a section or on to reveal a section. You can also drag the handle (the three horizontal lines icon) to the left of any section name and drag the section upward or downward in the list to change the section order.

When you’re finished configuring the right panel you can click the Save button to apply the changes. Note that there is also a “Default Order” button you can click to reset the panel section order to the default configuration.

Hiding or rearranging panels can help reduce clutter and streamline your workflow within Lightroom Classic. Just keep in mind that it also means your interface won’t look the same as for other Lightroom Classic users. For example, if you watch my video training courses, I generally have the panels in the default configuration, and that can lead to a little bit of confusion if you’ve changed your configuration.

Shortcut to Basic Adjustments

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: Is there a way in Lightroom to quickly jump back to the “Basic” tab in the Develop module? I spend a lot of time in the Masking areas and other parts of the Develop module while developing my photos, and I’d be even happier if there were a keyboard shortcut to open that Basic tab.

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can switch to (or expand) the Basic section of the right panel in the Develop module by pressing Ctrl+1 on Windows or Command+1 on Macintosh.

More Detail: You can switch between sections on the right panel in all modules in Lightroom Classic by holding the Ctrl key on Windows or the Command key on Macintosh while pressing the number associated with the particular section. In the Library and Develop modules the Histogram is assigned the number zero, so you could press Ctrl+0 on Windows or Command+0 on Macintosh to expand or collapse the Histogram section, for example.

For all other sections in all modules, the numbering starts with one and goes from there. So, in the context of the Develop module with the default panel configuration the Basic section has a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+1 or Command+1, the Tone Curve section has a keyboard shortcut of Ctrl+2 or Command+2, and so on.

These keyboard shortcuts serve as a toggle beyond just navigating to a section. They will also expand or collapse the section. So, for example, if you were currently looking at the Basic section you could press Ctrl+4 or Command+4 to quickly scroll to the Color Grading section. At that point if you were to press Ctrl+4 or Command+4 again the Color Grading section would collapse. You could then press the keyboard shortcut yet again to expand the section once more.

These shortcuts will work even if you haven’t collapsed the panel associated with one of the special tools, such as the Crop or Masking tool. The only issue is that if you haven’t collapsed the section for the tool, that section will take away from the space that is available for the other sections on the right panel.

Logo to Lightroom Classic Panels

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: I thoroughly enjoyed watching your presentations and have learned a few tips along the way. I would also be grateful if you could share how you managed to show your logo in the panel of Lightroom Classic.

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can add a custom panel end mark in Lightroom Classic by creating a PNG file for this purpose, saving it to the appropriate folder, and selecting it from the “End Marks” popup in Preferences.

More Detail: Panel end marks are graphics that appear at the bottom of the left and right panels in all modules in Lightroom Classic. By default you can choose between a small flourish or “None”. But you can also create your own custom graphic for these end marks. I use my GreyLearning logo as the end mark as a bit of branding, but you can create any end mark you’d like.

The first step is to create a PNG file of no more than 250 pixels wide (I find that a width of 150 pixels works great). You can use transparency for this PNG file if you’d like a logo to blend into the background of the panel. You can also use a simple graphic and save it as a PNG. Photoshop is a good tool for creating, editing, and saving an image as a PNG.

With the PNG file created, you can go to the Preferences dialog in Lightroom Classic and select the Interface tab. Click the End Marks popup in the Panels section and choose “Go to Panel Marks Folder”. This will take you to the applicable folder in the operating system, creating it in the process if it doesn’t exist. Copy your PNG file to that folder, and then restart Lightroom Classic.

Return to the Preferences dialog, and on the Interface tab you’ll now be able to choose your image from the End Marks popup. Once you’ve done so, your graphic will appear at the bottom of the left and right panels.

Photo Count Mismatch

Facebooktwitterlinkedin

Today’s Question: My Lightroom Classic catalog shows fewer photos than the folder on the hard drive where the photos are kept. What makes this issue even more confusing is that when I try to import photos from the folder, Lightroom Classic indicates that the photos have already been imported. So, where are they?

Tim’s Quick Answer: This scenario suggests that the photos had previously been imported to a different folder, even though there are copies on the hard drive in the folder where some of the images are shown in Lightroom Classic.

More Detail: If the folder on the hard drive contains more photos than are present in that folder in the Lightroom Classic catalog, that generally means that either only some of the photos had been imported in the first place, or that some of the photos had been removed from the catalog without deleting the source files.

In this case there is the added twist that when an attempt is made to import the photos from the folder that aren’t in the Lightroom Classic catalog, the photos are being reported as already being present in the catalog. While it is possible to override this issue by turning off the “Don’t import suspected duplicates” checkbox on the right panel in the Import dialog, I recommend first figuring out where the photos actually are.

One quick way to find the applicable photos is to sort by capture time and browse all images. So, while browsing the affected folder in Lightroom Classic in the grid view, set the Sort popup on the toolbar below the image preview area to “Capture Time”. Then be sure to select one of the photos in the folder where there are “extra” photos on the hard drive not shown in Lightroom Classic.

Next, navigate to the “All Photographs” collection in the Catalog section at the top of the left panel. Also make sure the Library Filter bar at the top of the grid view is set to “None” so that all photos are displayed. At this point, assuming the photos expected in the folder were captured around the same time, you should be seeing all the photos, including those that are in the folder on the hard drive but not in Lightroom Classic. Assuming that’s the case, right-click on one of the “missing” photos and choose “Go to folder in Library” from the popup menu. That will take you to the location where the photos are actually stored within the Lightroom Classic catalog, which will partially reveal the mystery.

You’ll still need to resolve this issue, which I recommend doing by consolidating photo storage within Lightroom Classic. You may even want to consolidate to a completely new folder within the catalog, and then go look at the two source folders in Lightroom Classic and on the hard drive to deal with the leftover images. But at least at this point you’ll know where the images are that prevent you from importing duplicate copies from a different folder.