Ask Tim Grey

Today’s Question: When I click on the crop tool in the Develop module [in Lightroom Classic] I don’t get the usual “rule of thirds” grid. I get a series of diagonal lines similar to the rule of thirds. Also, if I drag one edge of the crop box two sides are moved rather than one.

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can change the overlay by choosing an option (such as Thirds) from the Tools > Crop Guide Overlay menu. To adjust one side of the crop box at a time, you can unlock the aspect ratio setting by clicking the padlock icon to the right of the Aspect label on the right panel.

More Detail: There are a variety of overlay shapes available when using the Crop tool in Lightroom Classic, which can be selected from the Tools > Crop Guide Overlay menu while in the Develop module. There are a variety of options related to different composition concepts, such as Thirds for the rule of thirds or Grid to assist with proper alignment of horizontal or vertical lines.

In addition to being able to select an option from the menu, you can also cycle through the various options by pressing the letter “O” on the keyboard. Holding the Shift key while pressing the letter “O” will cycle through different orientations for overlay shapes that aren’t symmetrical.

When the aspect ratio for the Crop tool is locked, dragging a single edge will cause two sides to be adjusted, to maintain the selected aspect ratio. If you want to be able to crop freeform to any aspect ratio, such as by adjusting only one side of the crop box, you can turn off the aspect ratio lock. This control is represented by a padlock icon, with the shackle closed to indicate the feature is locked or open to indicate it is unlocked. Simply click on the icon to toggle the setting.

Today’s Question: Is there a limit on how many adds one can make to a mask?
I had a situation where I could not complete a mask in Lightroom Classic. The image was of a pile of cannon balls at an old military fort. It would not select the whole pile at once. I would add to the mask to incrementally get the whole pile – almost. After about 6 add steps, it would not allow any more. It just ignored the add command.

Tim’s Quick Answer: There isn’t a specific limit to the number of mask components you can create for an image, but it is limited by system resources such as memory.

More Detail: The masking feature in Lightroom Classic (or Camera Raw) is relatively resource-intensive, which can lead to performance degradation or even the exhaustion of system resources. This is particularly an issue when using a large number of masks or complicated masks the involve a large number of components.

You can often improve this issue by simplifying a mask to the extent possible. For example, rather than adding a separate mask component for each cannonball in the image referenced in the question, you could use the Brush to paint over all the cannon balls in a single mask component.

You can also minimize this issue, of course, by using a more powerful computer. In particular, having adequate system memory (RAM) and GPU memory (VRAM) can have a big impact. Other resources such as the processor (CPU) and adequate available hard drive space can also impact performance.

This issue is compounded by the fact that the software doesn’t generate an error message when you aren’t able to add an additional mask component. Hopefully that will be resolved by Adobe in a future release so the software doesn’t just give the impression that it is ignoring you as opposed to not being able to execute the command for you.

Today’s Question: I rename all images on import into Lightroom Classic, including a sequence number at the end. I then sort by Capture Time, but the images are not in numerical order by the new image number in the filename. If I select view by File Name, they will be in numerical order by image number, but not in capture time order. How can I correct this other than by renaming after import?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You simply need to make sure the Sort popup in the Import dialog is set to “Capture Time”, so that renaming as part of the import process will assign the sequence number in order based on capture time.

More Detail: It is easy to overlook the Sort popup in the Import dialog when importing new photos into Lightroom Classic, because during that process it doesn’t generally seem important what order the images are displayed in. Instead, you may be focused on confirming the other settings related to the images being imported.

However, if you’re renaming photos with a sequence number during import, that sequence number will be assigned based on the sort order that was established in the Import dialog. That’s the same for renaming later in your workflow, where the sort order determines how the sequence number is assigned.

Therefore, in general, if you’re renaming photos in Lightroom Classic you’ll want to set the Sort popup (whether in the Import dialog or in the Library module) to “Capture Time”, so that the file renaming will be based on the order the photos were captured. That is particularly important when including a sequence number as part of the file renaming structure, since you would generally want that sequence number assigned based on the capture order of the images.

Today’s Question: When I have several images of the same scene under the same lighting is there a way to apply the same adjustments in batch at least as a starting point for those photos in Lightroom Classic?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can simply select the similar photos and enable the Auto-Sync feature in the Develop module in Lightroom Classic, so all adjustments will synchronize to the selected photos in real time.

More Detail: There are several ways you can batch process images in Lightroom Classic, to apply the same adjustments to several similar images, for example. One of the most efficient options is to enable the Auto-Sync feature for several selected images.

To get started select the images you want to apply the same adjustments to. You can select images from different folders and collections or having filtered the images based on specific metadata criteria, for example. As long as the images you want to synchronize adjustments for are selected on the filmstrip on the bottom panel while you’re in the Develop module, you can synchronize adjustments for those images.

With the images selected on the filmstrip, make sure the Auto-Sync option is active. At the bottom of the right panel you’ll see two buttons, one for synchronization and the other for Reset. If the button on the left says “Auto-Sync”, that means real-time synchronization is already enabled. If it says “Sync”, click the toggle switch on the left side of the button to enable Auto-Sync.

At that point you can apply any adjustments you’d like in the Develop module, and they will be synchronized in real time to all selected images. That even includes advanced features such as masking. If, for example, you use the Sky option for a mask to apply a targeted adjustment, the sky will be analyzed and masked for each image individually. In other words, you’ll get an accurate result for each image even if the horizon was in a different position for each.

While applying your adjustments, you’ll notice that the thumbnails on the filmstrip update for all selected images. When you’re finished, I recommend turning off the Auto-Sync feature by clicking the toggle switch again, just to make sure you don’t inadvertently synchronize adjustments unintentionally if you later select the same images for a different purpose.

Today’s Question: When I import from a memory card to a parent folder Lightroom Classic creates a subfolder of the year the image was taken as well as a sub-sub folder with the date the images were taken. How can I prevent Lightroom Classic from creating the year folder, but keep the date folder?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can maintain date-based folders without a parent folder for the year when importing photos by choosing an option from the Date Format popup in the Import dialog that only includes a single folder level.

More Detail: When you choose the “By date” option from the Organize popup in the Destination section of the right panel in the Import dialog in Lightroom Classic, you can then choose a folder structure option from the “Date Format” popup. This will determine not only how the date-based folders are named, but also how many folders will be created.

When looking at the options on the Date Format popup, the key thing to keep in mind is that a slash indicates a folder while a dash simply indicates a dash in text. In other words, when there are slashes in an option on the popup, it means that more than one folder will be created.

For example, if you choose “2026/03/06” from the popup that means a folder will be created for the year 2026, which will include a folder called “03” for March, which will include a folder called “06” for the 6th of March. If, on the other hand, you see “2026-03-06” that means a folder will be created for March 6, 2026, with no parent folder above and no subfolder below.

Most of the options on the popup will cause there to be a folder for the year, along with one or more subfolders. Those subfolders could be at a single level indicating the month and year, or in two levels with a folder for each month and a folder for each day within the month folder.

In this case it sounds like you want individual folders for each data on which you captured photos, with no parent folder for the year. So you would choose an option such as “2026-03-06” to achieve that.

Note, by the way, that I strongly recommend only using date-based folders that consist of numbers, not for example with the name of the months. That is because the months in alphabetical order, which is how the folders are listed in Lightroom Classic, will not correspond to date order. Using only numbers to represent the dates will ensure that the folders sort in chronological order, which can help avoid confusion.

Today’s Question: I just noticed that the Lightroom Classic catalog and associated files say “v13-3”. When I check the version of Lightroom Classic on my computer it says version 15.2. What should I do?

Tim’s Quick Answer: I recommend renaming the Lightroom Classic catalog using the new built-in feature, using a more generic name that will avoid any future confusion.

More Detail: With a recent update to Lightroom Classic, when a catalog upgrade is necessary the catalog files will no longer be renamed. While I consider this to be a change for the better, it does create potential confusion about the catalog version compared to the version of Lightroom Classic.

Prior to the update, when the catalog files were upgraded the filename would be updated to reflect the current version number of Lightroom Classic. Now that upgrades don’t change the filenames for catalog files many photographers will have catalog files that reflect an older version of Lightroom Classic than they’re currently using.

To resolve this issue and avoid future confusion, I recommend renaming the catalog to a more generic name that doesn’t reflect a version number. To get started, go to the File menu in Lightroom Classic and choose “Rename Catalog”. In the Rename Catalog file that appears you can update the catalog name, such as to remove the reference to the version number and perhaps add your name or other identifying information.

I recommend leaving the “Rename parent folder” checkbox turned off unless you’re certain that you don’t have any photos stored within that folder structure. Otherwise, any folders and photos within that folder structure would then become missing in the context of your catalog.

Click the Rename button, and Lightroom Classic will restart, renaming the catalog files as part of the process.

Today’s Question: Is there a way to skip the intermediate Camera Raw screen and go directly to the DNG file I will work on in Photoshop?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can skip the Camera Raw dialog in Photoshop by holding the Shift key while opening an image from the File > Open dialog or from Adobe Bridge.

More Detail: When you open a raw capture in Photoshop, the Camera Raw dialog will come up so you can adjust the settings for the processing of that raw image before opening the rendered result in Photoshop. Adobe DNG (digital negative) files are treated like raw captures, even though they might have been created after the photo capture process and are therefore opened via Camera Raw as well.

If you don’t need to process (or modify) the image with Camera Raw, you can indeed bypass Camera Raw and open the image directly in Photoshop. To do so, you can hold the Shift key while either opening the image via the dialog when you choose the File > Open command from within Photoshop, or when you double-click an image in Adobe Bridge to open it in Photoshop.

When you bypass the Camera Raw interface in this way, that doesn’t mean the Camera Raw adjustments aren’t applied. It just means you don’t have the opportunity to update the adjustment settings for the image. If you had previously adjusted the raw or DNG image with Camera Raw, the adjustment settings you used previously will apply as the image is opened. If you hadn’t previously processed the image with Camera Raw the default settings will be used to render the image via Camera Raw even though you don’t see the dialog in this scenario.

Today’s Question: In Lightroom Classic the buttons for rotating an image in 90-degree increments are in the Library module. Is there any way to add those buttons in the Develop module?

Tim’s Quick Answer: No, you can’t add buttons for 90-degree rotation in the Develop module, but you can access those options via the menu or using keyboard shortcuts.

More Detail: While I acknowledge that most photographers would likely want to rotate images in 90-degree increments when initially reviewing photos in the Library module in Lightroom Classic, I still think the buttons for rotating in 90-degree increments should be available in the Develop module.

For example, buttons for 90-degree rotation could be added to the Crop tool, or they could be available on the toolbar below the image preview area in the Develop module the way they are in the Library module.

Fortunately, there’s no need to switch to the Library module if you need to rotate an image in 90-degree increments while in the Develop module. You can simply go to the Photo menu on the menu bar and choose Rotate Left or Rotate Right. You can also use the keyboard shortcuts, which involves holding the Ctrl key on Windows or the Command key on Macintosh while pressing the right square bracket key to rotate clockwise or the left square bracket key to rotate counterclockwise. Note that you can also right-click on a thumbnail on the filmstrip and choose “Rotate Left” or “Rotate Right” from the popup menu.

Even with these options, however, I still hold out hope that Adobe will add buttons for these rotation options in the Develop module, even if they aren’t adjustments that most of us need all that often.

Today’s Question: Is it possible to apply the Guided Upright transformation to multiple photos for perspective correction in batch in Lightroom Classic?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Sort of. A batch application of the Guided Upright adjustment will only work for images that were captured of the same subject from the exact same position such as using a tripod.

More Detail: While it is technically possible to use the Auto Sync feature or a preset in Lightroom Classic to apply the same transform adjustment using the Guided option for Upright, doing so will apply the exact same transformation to all images. If the images weren’t aligned exactly the same, such as by using a tripod, then the transformations won’t work well for all images that get adjusted in this way.

The reason this is an issue is that the Guided option for Upright under the Transform adjustments is not analyzing the image to look for lines that should be straight. Instead, this adjustment relies upon your guidance, by virtue of you drawing lines that correspond to lines on the subject that should be perfectly horizontal or vertical.

So, if you’re referring to a series of photos captured from the exact same position while the light conditions were changing, or as a bracketed set for an HDR image, for example, then you could most certainly apply the same Guided Upright adjustment to all the photos. If there were even relatively minor perspective changes from one photo to the next, this won’t work.

If you do have photos that were captured from the exact same position, there are a couple of options you could use for batch processing. The easiest would be to select the images on the filmstrip and then turn on the Auto Sync feature on the Sync button at the bottom of the right panel. It is also possible to create a preset that includes both the “Upright Mode” and “Upright Transform” options, although this preset would generally only apply to a very small number of photos, which is why I consider the Auto Sync option to be the better approach for this type of situation.

Today’s Question: I have a photo of a building that exhibits the common “leaning away” look due to perspective. I applied the Lens Correction adjustment in Lightroom Classic, but this didn’t address the issue. Is there a way to fix this distortion based on the perspective for an architectural photo?

Tim’s Quick Answer: In most cases to correct perspective in architectural photos, I recommend using the Guided option for the Upright adjustment in the Transform section in Lightroom Classic (found in the Geometry section for the Crop tool in Camera Raw).

More Detail: The Guided option for the Upright adjustment in the Transform section on the right panel of the Develop module in Lightroom Classic enables you to straighten out the perspective for buildings or other objects that should have lines that are perfectly (or nearly so) horizontal or vertical. The results can seem outright magical.

To get started go to the Transform section of the right panel in the Develop module and choose Guided from the set of buttons under the Upright label. Within the image you can then click-and-drag at least two lines and as many as four lines to align with edges within the image that should be perfectly horizonal or perfectly vertical. In many cases this will involve first drawing two horizontal lines, such as along a roof line and a foundation line, and then two vertical lines such as along the outer vertical walls of the building.

You won’t see any effect until you have drawn two lines, and the image will continue to update as you draw the third and fourth line. The adjustment will cause the lines you draw, along with the image itself, to be adjusted so they are perfectly horizontal or vertical, depending on whether they are closer to horizontal or vertical as drawn.

Once you’ve improved the alignment of lines within the image, you can continue to fine-tune using the Transform controls below the Upright buttons. For example, you may want to fine-tune the slider value for Vertical and Horizontal to refine the overall perspective for the image.

It can also be very helpful to adjust the Aspect slider to stretch the image either horizontally or vertically to improve the accuracy of the relationship between the height and width of the building. For example, in some cases you may find the adjustments cause the building to look to short and squat, while in other cases you may find the building seems artificially tall and skinny. The Aspect slider provides an excellent way to resolve this issue.