Ask Tim Grey

Today’s Question: Is there some setting in Lightroom Classic that needs to be on in order to download folders of focus-stacked images? When I downloaded photos from a memory card that included a mixture of single images and focus-stacked bursts into Lightroom Classic, the folders that my camera had put each focus-stacked burst into were overlooked. Is there some simpler route I am overlooking?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can preserve the folders created by your camera when importing photos into Lightroom Classic by using the “By original folders” option in the Destination section of the right panel in the Import dialog.

More Detail: Many cameras will create various folders containing the photos you have captured. For example, some cameras will group photos into folders in groups of 100 or 1,000 captures. As noted in today’s question, some cameras will also use folders to separate bursts of photos, such as those used for focus stacking.

When importing photos into Lightroom Classic, by default all photos from all folders on a media card will be downloaded into a single folder. In many cases this might be exactly what you want. But in some cases, such as with the focus-stacking example, you may very much want to preserve the folders created by the camera.

To do so, specify the destination for the photos you’re downloading in the normal way within the Import dialog. However, be sure to select the “By original folders” option if you want to retain the folder structure from the camera when downloading your photos as part of this process.

For example, if you captured these photos during a photo trip to a specific destination, you might be downloading the captures into a folder named based on the trip. But by using the “By original folders” option, subfolders will be created based on the folders present on the media card as they were created by the camera.

Today’s Question: How dependable do you feel Time Machine is for backing up the internal hard drive on a Macintosh computer? Put another way, if you needed to wipe the hard drive on a Mac, would you trust Time Machine to restore the computer without losing any personal data?

Tim’s Quick Answer: I consider the Time Machine backup to be very dependable and have used Time Machine to configure each new Macintosh computer I have purchased based on a backup of the computer I was replacing.

More Detail: Time Machine is the built-in backup feature of the Macintosh operating system, and in my view it provides two key benefits that I think make it very worthwhile use Time Machine to back up the internal hard drive for any Macintosh computer.

The first benefit of Time Machine is that it provides a complete backup of all user files on your computer. This means you can use a Time Machine backup to completely restore a computer. For example, if you buy a new Macintosh computer you can restore from a Time Machine backup of your previous computer to configure the computer with all user data intact. I have used this feature on numerous occasions when configuring a new computer, as well as when I need to erase a hard drive for maintenance purposes and want to restore from a Time Machine backup.

The second benefit is that Time Machine maintains a historical backup of user files on your computer. This includes versions of documents, though the availability of older versions depends upon the storage capacity. For example, let’s assume you that for the past few months you have had an important document on the desktop, and you’ve been updating that document on a regular basis. Then you realize that a few days ago you deleted the document.

In this type of situation, you could simply launch the Time Machine application, navigate to the storage location where the file you want to recover exists, and scroll back in time to the most recent point when the document still existed. You would then be able to recover the file by copying it back to the desktop. This feature would even enable you to recover an older version of a document even if the updated version hadn’t been backed up.

Many readers know that I use GoodSync (http://timgrey.me/greybackup) to back up my external hard drives, and that I use Backblaze (https://timgrey.me/cloudbackup) for an online (and therefore offsite) backup of my internal and external drives. But I also maintain a Time Machine backup for the internal hard drive on my computer (though Time Machine can also backup your external hard drives if you’d like).

Today’s Question: When I’m changing the resolution of a photo in the Image Size dialog in Photoshop, I’m not able to select the Pixels option for the Width or Height. How can I resize based on specific pixel dimensions rather than using another option such as inches?

Tim’s Quick Answer: To enable the Pixels option from the popup for Width or Height in the Image Size dialog in Photoshop you need to turn on the Resample checkbox. Note that this checkbox always needs to be turned on to be able to change the pixel dimensions for an image.

More Detail: As odd as it may sound, in the Image Size dialog it is possible to change the output size of an image without actually changing the pixel dimensions for the image. This is why you need to have the Resample checkbox turned on to be able to adjust the image size based on pixels rather than a different unit of measure such as inches or centimeters.

If the Resample checkbox is turned off the pixel dimensions for the image can’t be changed. Instead, if you for example change the dimensions of the image in inches, the pixel per inch resolution will be adjusted accordingly, so that the same number of pixels remain in the image. In most cases, however, you would want to resize the actual pixel dimensions if you’re preparing an image to be shared at a particular size.

With the Resample checkbox turned off, you aren’t changing the number of pixels in the image, so instead making a change to either the dimensions or the resolution will cause the other value to update accordingly, so the same number of pixels remain. In this case the Pixels option is disabled on the popup for Width and Height because you’re not able to change the pixel dimensions.

If you turn on the Resample checkbox, you’re able to alter the pixel dimensions, so the Pixels option will be enabled on the popups. This can be helpful when resizing an image for digital output, such as sizing based on the resolution of a digital projector. For output such as a print, it is generally easier to specify the dimensions in inches or centimeters, along with designating the pixel per inch (or centimeter) resolution based on the capabilities of the printer being used.

Today’s Question: Are there circumstances when you would recommend using a monopod instead of a tripod? It seems to me that carrying a monopod instead of a tripod isn’t really going to make a big difference in terms of how much gear I’m traveling with.

Tim’s Quick Answer: I consider a monopod to be preferable to a tripod for situations where you want to be able to move the camera while having some degree of stability. I don’t feel that a monopod is the right compromise when you want complete stability for the camera and are just trying to travel lighter.

More Detail: A monopod obviously doesn’t provide as much stability as a tripod, although there are some monopods that have extensions that enable them to stand on their own with stability that is similar to that of a tripod. Therefore, when you need complete stability such as for long-exposure photography I always recommend using a tripod rather than a monopod.

While in general a monopod will be smaller and lighter than a tripod when comparing models with the same overall height and construction, in most cases I don’t find the difference to be as helpful as you might expect when it comes to traveling with the gear. That’s not to say there isn’t a difference, but to me that difference isn’t worth the downside when it comes to the greater stability of a tripod.

There are, however, situations where a monopod is generally better than a tripod, and that involves scenarios where you want some stability and support but you want to be able to move the camera with relative ease and freedom.

For example, with sports photography you often want to be able to reposition and pivot the camera with great freedom, but you want to have a bit of help keeping the camera stable. The monopod is also tremendously helpful in terms of helping to support a heavy lens even when you don’t necessarily need the assistance with stability.

My recommendation is to choose between a monopod and a tripod based on the degree to which you need support and stability, not based on the relative size and weight of the two options. In my view the most important consideration is the benefits each type of support provides. Sometimes a monopod is much better than a tripod, and sometimes a tripod is invaluable compared to a monopod.

Today’s Question: I frequently apply a similar set of adjustments to the background of a photo such as reducing the sharpness and color saturation. Is there a way in Lightroom Classic to create a preset that I can apply only to the currently masked area in a photo?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can use presets for targeted adjustments by either applying a preset to an existing mask or by creating an adaptive preset that employs an automatic mask.

More Detail: The first way you can use a preset for a targeted adjustment is to apply a preset to an existing mask within the Masking adjustments. To create a preset for this purpose you need to add a mask to an image, and then configure the adjustment settings for that targeted adjustment the way you want to preserve them for a preset.

Then click the Preset popup found near the top of the adjustments in the Masking section and choose “Save Current Settings as New Preset” from the popup. In the dialog that appears type a meaningful name for the preset and click the Create button. You can then choose that preset from the Preset popup anytime you have an active mask that you want to apply the preset to.

The other way you can use presets for targeted adjustments is to create a Develop module preset that includes one or more automatic masks, which are referred to as adaptive presets because they adapt automatically to the image they are applied to. The automatic mask options include Subject, Sky, and Background.

For example, let’s assume you wanted to create a preset that would apply specific adjustments to the sky in a photo. Start by adding a Sky mask to an image and applying the various adjustments for the sky. Then click the plus icon (+) to the right of the Presets heading on the left panel in the Develop module and choose Create Preset.

In the New Develop Preset dialog you can enter a meaningful name for the preset in the Preset Name field, and then choose which group you want to put the preset in from the Group popup. You can then turn on the checkboxes for only the adjustments you want to include in the preset. For example, in this case you might click the “Check None” button to turn off the checkboxes for all adjustments, and then turn on the Masking checkbox so the mask and related adjustments will be included in the preset. Click the Create button to save the new preset.

When you apply that preset to other images, because a Sky mask was included (at least in this example) the sky will automatically be detected in the image to which you applied the preset, and the adjustment settings you saved as part of the preset will be applied to the sky in the image.

Today’s Question: How can I email someone an image from Lightroom Mobile that is full resolution?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can share a full-resolution image from the Lightroom mobile app by using the “Largest available dimensions” setting for Dimension when using either the “Share” or “Export as” options.

More Detail: When you share an image from the Lightroom mobile app the default image size is 2,048 pixels on the long side. However, you can also specify custom dimensions or use the full resolution of the image being shared with the Dimensions setting.

To get started select the image you want to share and tap the Share button at the top-right of the Lightroom mobile app interface. The icon for the Share button shows a rectangle with an arrow pointing up from the top. If you’re going to select the “Share” option, you need to click the settings button to the far right of the Share button to bring up the settings. If you simply click the Share button, you’ll be sharing with the default settings. Note that tapping the “Export as” option will take you to the same settings that you have when tapping the settings button associated with the Share button.

After tapping the settings button you can adjust the settings for sharing, including the file type, pixel dimensions, and other options. In this case you would select the “Largest available dimensions” option. Keep in mind, however, that if you are sharing an image that was synchronized from Lightroom Classic the maximum pixel dimensions will be 2,550 pixels on the long edge, because that image will have been synchronized as a smart preview rather than the original file format. Tap the checkmark icon at the top-right of the screen and you’ll be prompted with the options for sharing the image, including via email.

Today’s Question: How can I get a set of photos (in several different named folders) from my desktop Windows computer onto my iPhone? Sync via iTunes is supposed to work and sort of does but about 10% of the photos never copy. Can I somehow use Lightroom Classic on desktop to get those photos onto the iPhone?

Tim’s Quick Answer: I think the simplest way to get photos from Lightroom Classic to a smartphone is to enable synchronization of collections of photos, which will then appear as albums in the Lightroom mobile app. This works great for both iPhone and Android smartphones.

More Detail: While you can use iTunes on Windows (or the built-in feature in MacOS) to synchronize photos to an iPhone, the process isn’t particularly streamlined, and I have heard from more than a few photographers who have struggled with getting synchronization to work consistently using iTunes for Windows.

If you’re already using Lightroom Classic to manage your photos, I think the easiest approach to getting selected photos onto your smartphone is to synchronize photos via collections in Lightroom Classic.

The first step is to create collections for the photos you want to synchronize to your smartphone and add photos to those collections. Then enable synchronization for the collections that contain photos you want to have on your smartphone. When you hover the mouse pointer over the name of a collection in the Collections section of the left panel in the Library module, you’ll see an icon to the left of the collection name. An empty box indicates that synchronization is not enabled, and you can click that box to turn on synchronization. A double-headed arrow that resembles a lightning bolt indicates that synchronization is enabled.

Once synchronization is enabled for one or more collections, the photos within those collections will be saved to the cloud. With Lightroom Classic those copies are smart previews, meaning they are saved as Adobe DNG files at a reduced resolution of about 2500 pixels on the long side.

You can then launch the Lightroom app on your mobile device, making sure you are signed in with the same Adobe ID used in Lightroom Classic. All collections you synchronized from Lightroom Classic will appear as albums within the Lightroom mobile app, making it easy to share those photos with others. Also, any changes you make to the images within the Lightroom mobile app, such as applying adjustments, will synchronize back to Lightroom Classic so you’ll see the updates there.

Today’s Question: Can you be more specific as to the synced Lightroom Classic raw file changes in terms of resolution and conversion to DNG? If I shoot raw Nikon NEF formatted images, and sync a collection to the cloud, what or how much is lost in the cloud copy of the file? What about metadata that is in the raw file, does some of it get lost as well?

Tim’s Quick Answer: When you synchronize a raw capture to the cloud via a synchronized collection in Lightroom Classic, the cloud-based image is a smart preview. That means it is simply converted to the Adobe DNG file format and reduced in resolution to a maximum of 2,550 pixels on the long edge.

More Detail: Lightroom Classic supports the creation of smart previews, which can be used in lieu of the original image when the source file is not currently available. Among other things, smart previews enable you to optimize photos in the Develop module even if the source file isn’t currently available.

When you synchronize photos to the cloud from Lightroom Classic, they are converted to a smart preview, which as noted above means they are simply converted to an Adobe DNG file with a maximum resolution of 2,550 pixels on the long edge.

No metadata is lost in this process. For example, when you are viewing a synchronized image outside of Lightroom Classic such as with the Lightroom mobile app or Lightroom in a web browser, you would still be able to see the key metadata for the photo.

Furthermore, I think it is important to keep in mind that the smart preview stored in the cloud is simply a placeholder for the source image. Any updates you apply to the cloud-based image will be synchronized to the source image, such as if you add keywords or apply adjustments to an image. You can think of the cloud-based image in this context as a high-quality preview of the image that enables you to work with that image from virtually anywhere, without the burden of needing to synchronize the much larger raw capture to be able to get online access to your photos throughout the full Lightroom ecosystem.

Today’s Question: I’ve started making greater use of online printing and wonder if you can provide advice on how best to prepare files for this. For example, when I use my own printer I set the resolution to 300 ppi, but is that useful if I’m sending the file to an online printer? If I do use that resolution, it enlarges the file size often beyond what’s acceptable by the online printer. To decrease the file size I then reduce the pixel width, but does that reduce the quality of the final print? Are there other settings I should be using to best optimize an image for online printing?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Reduced resolution (as well as JPEG compression) can most certainly have a negative impact on print quality. I therefore recommend using a print service that allows you to upload large image files.

More Detail: There are two basic approaches I recommend when preparing images for online printing. My personal preference and recommendation is to resize the image and otherwise prepare it for the final output size, just as though I were printing the photo myself. The other option is to prepare the image at its native resolution and allow it to be resized by the printer.

I also recommend saving the file as a TIFF image, not JPEG. Even at a high quality setting it is possible for there to be visible artifacts when a JPEG image is printed, which are caused by the nature of the JPEG compression. I prefer to resize the image to the final output size at 300 pixels per inch, but you could also leave the file at the native size and allow it to be enlarged at the time of printing.

Some online photo printing services limit the file size you can upload, but this will not enable you to ensure optimal print quality for your photos. I therefore only recommend using an online print provider that will allow you to submit large files. For example, I have used Bay Photo (https://bayphoto.com) with very good results, and I’ve been able to upload large TIFF files for printing.

Today’s Question: Since syncing [to the cloud] is possible with Lightroom Classic, can’t you work on your images on any device, thereby invalidating a potential benefit of Lightroom Cloud?

Tim’s Quick Answer: Yes, you can edit images synchronized from Lightroom Classic from virtually anywhere, such as by using the Lightroom mobile app or Lightroom in a web browser.

More Detail: One of the core features of the cloud-focused version of Lightroom is that it enables you to store photos in the cloud, so they are accessible from anywhere you have an internet connection. However, that same basic capability is included with Lightroom Classic as well.

The only real difference is that with the cloud-focused version of Lightroom the original files are stored in the cloud. With Lightroom Classic when you synchronize photos to the cloud the synchronized copies are saved as Adobe DNG files with a reduced resolution. But this doesn’t really impact your workflow in any meaningful way.

You can simply enable synchronization for the collections in Lightroom Classic that you want to have available from elsewhere. Then using the Lightroom mobile app or Lightroom in a web browser (https://lightroom.adobe.com) you can edit the synchronized photos. The changes you make will synchronize back to Lightroom Classic.

Note that while it is also possible to use the cloud-focused Lightroom desktop application to access photos that had been synchronized from Lightroom Classic, I don’t really recommend mixing the use of Lightroom Classic and Lightroom due to the risk of confusion in terms of where photos are actually stored.