Category: Ask Tim Grey

Today’s Question: Does Photoshop compress a JPG each time it’s saved, causing continued loss of quality? Do image viewer apps not have this problem?

Tim’s Quick Answer: There is only a cumulative degradation in image quality for a JPEG that is both modified and saved. Simply saving repeatedly without changing the image will not cause further degradation, and simply viewing the image will not cause degradation.

More Detail: JPEG files are almost always saved with “lossy” compression applied, meaning there is some loss of fidelity and quality for an image that is saved as a JPEG image. This degradation from compression obviously applies the first time an image is created, such as when you capture a JPEG image with a camera or save an existing image as a JPEG for the first time.

If you open and re-save a JPEG image without making any changes, the source pixel values have not changed and therefore the JPEG encoding will not be changed, assuming the file settings (such as the Quality setting) have not been changed.

Only when you make changes to a JPEG image and then save it again will there be a cumulative degradation in image quality. Opening an image to view it and then closing without making any changes will not alter the JPEG image. Furthermore, opening a JPEG image and then saving repeatedly without actually making any changes to the image will not cause any degradation. You’d simply be saving the exact same file repeatedly.

The reality is that the cumulative degradation of a JPEG image is not generally a significant issue that you would be able to actually notice even with close examination, provided you used a relatively high setting for Quality. However, because of the general issues of JPEG compression degrading image quality, I don’t recommend using JPEG as a format for saving files that will be modified.

If you are capturing with the raw capture format and need to create a derivative image for editing, I recommend saving as a TIFF or Photoshop PSD file. If you are working with a JPEG capture, I still recommend converting to TIFF or PSD for your working file. I only recommend saving to JPEG when creating a derivative image for sharing with others.

Today’s Question: When I back up my files, I use EaseUS Todo Backup Free and it backs up all the docs, photos, and music I select and it consolidates them into one file, not individual files like a copy function would do. Does this consolidating and compressing create problems for the photo files in particular? With this system I cannot extract a single file but have to restore all the files backed up by the software which must decompress the files in storage.

Tim’s Quick Answer: Using backup software that compresses the source files into one (or more) compressed archives isn’t a problem for the files themselves, as they will be a perfect match to the original if restored from that backup. The challenge, however, is that a potentially time-consuming restore process is required, which is why I prefer a synchronization-based approach to backing up, in my case using GoodSync (http://timgrey.me/greybackup).

More Detail: As far as I’m concerned, any backup that enables you to recover lost or damaged files counts as a “good” backup. However, some backups are better than others.

I very much prefer (and recommend) a synchronization approach to backing up photos and other important data. This approach provides a number of benefits, by virtue of the fact that the backup will be a perfect match to the original files.

First, with a synchronization backup recovery is very straightforward. For example, I backup my “Photos” hard drive to a “Photos Backup” drive. If my Photos drive were to ever fail, I could simply replace it with the Photos Backup drive.

In addition, with a synchronization approach you can always boost your confidence in the backup by browsing the backup directly. In the above example I could simply connect and browse my Photos Backup drive and visually confirm that it is indeed a perfect match to the Photos drive.

A synchronized backup is similar in concept to a common approach to an incremental backup, meaning each time you perform a backup only the files that have actually been changed since the last backup will need to be updated for the backup. However, with a compressed incremental backup the restore process can require considerable time, since the original backup plus each incremental change must be processed. That is not an issue for a synchronized backup.

There are a number of software solutions for backing up via synchronization. The software I use and recommend is called GoodSync, which you can learn more about here:

http://timgrey.me/greybackup

Today’s Question: I am expecting to be working in a very remote location for about five weeks and want to be sure I will be able to access Lightroom Classic and Photoshop on my laptop. Is there anything I need to do to be sure I have access while being offline for such a period of time?

Tim’s Quick Answer: If you have a monthly subscription you will need to connect to the internet at least every 30 days. You can extend this to a 99-day grace period by switching to an annual plan rather than monthly.

More Detail: Adobe applications require that you validate your subscription via an internet connection. There is a 30-day grace period for monthly Creative Cloud subscribers and a 99-day grace period for annual subscribers. If you want to change your plan to the annual option, you will need to contact Adobe support directly to make this change.

If you’re traveling offline for a period of time that exceeds the grace period at some point during the trip, you’ll need to get online to reset the clock. You can also reset that clock before your trip to help ensure you’ll have as much time as possible working offline before you need to validate your subscription again.

So, I recommend resetting the clock before your trip, and then again along the way based on the grace period available to you.

To reset the clock for your subscription validation first make sure to quit Lightroom Classic and any other Adobe applications that may be open. Then go to the main Creative Cloud app (where you install updates, for example), and click the icon representing your account at the top-right of the window. Choose “Sign Out” from the popup and click to confirm in the dialog that appears.

Next, sign in again with your Creative Cloud account. You can then close the Creative Cloud application window and launch both Lightroom Classic and Photoshop to reset the clock. Repeat this process whenever you’re able to get online during your trip to reset the clock for the grace period.

Note, by the way, that if you aren’t able to validate your Creative Cloud subscription during an extended period offline, you won’t lose any of your data. You simply won’t be able to use the Adobe applications until you’re able to get back online to validate the subscription.

Today’s Question: I have been frustrated for some time because I have been unable to figure out how to send a smartphone photo (Android S21) directly to Lightroom Classic on my desktop. Can it be done and how do I accomplish it?

Tim’s Quick Answer: There are a variety of ways you can transfer smartphone captures to your Lightroom Classic catalog. Each option has its own shortcomings, but I recommend downloading from your smartphone to your computer, importing into Lightroom Classic, and then deleting the originals from your smartphone.

More Detail: It is completely understandable to be frustrated when it comes to trying to get photos from a smartphone into Lightroom Classic. There are several ways you could approach this, some of which are relatively simple. However, there are also pitfalls that can prove incredibly frustrating.

I recommend treating your smartphone as you would any camera, with a workflow that matches what you’re probably already doing with other cameras. Specifically, that means importing photos into Lightroom Classic and then deleting the originals, typically by formatting the media card in the camera.

If you’re using an Android smartphone there’s a good chance you have a removable media card that can be used for capturing photos, which you can then remove and use to import photos into Lightroom Classic, deleting the photos from the card after the import (and backup) is complete). For iPhone users you don’t have this option, but all smartphone users can also use software such as Adobe Bridge to download photos from the smartphone to your computer and then delete the photos after they have been downloaded (and backed up).

So, the approach I take is to download photos directly from my smartphone to a temporary folder on my computer. I then import the photos into my Lightroom Classic catalog, using the “Copy” option for import to put the imported photos into my preferred folder on my external hard drive used for photo storage. I then delete all the photos from my smartphone. The copy on my desktop can be retained until I’ve completed a full backup of the hard drive containing the master copies of the photos.

Another option would be to use the camera feature of the Lightroom mobile app to capture photos, or import photos captured with your smartphone Camera app into the Lightroom mobile app. Those photos will then be synchronized to the cloud, and they will appear in Lightroom Classic as long as synchronization is enabled there. You could then move the photos to your preferred storage location. However, the photos would still appear in your cloud-based storage, consuming space there. You would therefore want to go back to the Lightroom mobile app and delete the photos manually after you’re sure they’ve been moved to your preferred storage location, which is a bit cumbersome.

Today’s Question: My Lightroom catalog contains about 350,000 images. Since the catalog is quite large, I prefer not having the previews on my main drive, but rather in the external drive. I prefer having the catalog itself on the internal drive which enables me to work on smart previews without the hard drive being connected. Does this present any problems and what is the best way to accomplish this?

Tim’s Quick Answer: While there is a way to store the previews file separate from the Lightroom Classic catalog, doing so is a little complicated and won’t completely solve the issue you’re trying to address.

More Detail: By default, the preview cache for your images is stored alongside the Lightroom Classic catalog file and related helper files, all in a single folder. That means the catalog, the previews, and the smart previews, for example, are all in the same folder and therefore on the same hard drive.

It is possible to store the previews file in a location separate from the Lightroom Classic catalog and still work normally in Lightroom Classic. However, in order for this to work you would need to have the previews file available. In other words, in this example you would need to have the external hard drive connected in order to work in Lightroom Classic, since the external hard drive would contain one of the key files required by the catalog.

Since in this case the intent is to be able to work in Lightroom Classic with the smart previews available but with the previews file on an external hard drive that may not be connected, there is not a workable solution.

Therefore, I recommend leaving the preview cache and other related files right where they are in the same folder that contains the actual Lightroom Classic catalog file. For those who are interested in moving their previews file, or are just curious of the technicalities involved, you can read on. Otherwise the rest of my answer may not be of much interest.

If you wanted to store the previews file in a different location (such as an external hard drive) that would be available whenever you’re using Lightroom Classic, you could do so by creating what is called a “symbolic link” to the file. This is a form of shortcut in the location where the file is expected (alongside the catalog) that links to the actual location of the source file.

I don’t really recommend this approach unless you are very comfortable with command line processing within the operating system. If you want to proceed, I suggest creating a good backup of your existing catalog files first. You could then move the previews file for your catalog to the desired location.

To create a symbolic link on Macintosh you would need to go to the Terminal application found in the Utilities folder within the Applications folder. You can then use the “ln” command (as in “link”) to create the link, with a syntax like this:

ln -s “/Volumes/VOLUMENAME/Folder/Lightroom Classic Catalog Previews.lrdata” “/Users/USERNAME/Pictures/Lightroom Classic Catalog”

The above command assumes the actual previews file is on an external hard drive called “VOLUMENAME” and that the catalog folder is within the Pictures folder. The VOLUMENAME and USERNAME references would therefore need to be replaced in the above command with the appropriate values.

Windows users who are interested in taking this approach should also obviously backup their catalog first, and can then refer to this article for instructions for creating a symbolic link with the Windows command prompt:

https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/16226/complete-guide-to-symbolic-links-symlinks-on-windows-or-linux/

Today’s Question: Given that smartphones are beginning to use some form of image stabilization, do you see any benefit to using a gimbal device for still photography purposes? Since I am leaving more equipment at home these days (especially the tripod), I’m thinking a phone gimbal may be just enough to assist in raw capture.

Tim’s Quick Answer: For still photography in general I don’t consider a gimbal to be necessary for a smartphone. A small tripod (https://bhpho.to/3H5YYuU) can be helpful if you’re capturing long exposures or otherwise want the smartphone in a fixed position.

More Detail: In most situations a gimbal won’t provide a significant advantage for still photography with a smartphone. In most cases shooting handheld is perfectly adequate with a smartphone. In situations where you need more stabilization, such as for long exposures, you can use a small tripod designed for smartphones, such as the Benro Tabletop Tripod (https://bhpho.to/3H5YYuU).

If you capture video with a smartphone, on the other hand, I highly recommend using a gimbal. A good gimbal can provide a dramatic benefit in terms of more stable video.

Unfortunately, I’ve not found a smartphone gimbal that has consistently provided great results without drifting or getting off balance. However, for shooting video I’ve found that the DJI Osmo Pocket (https://bhpho.to/3Hd5xMr) works great either standalone or as a smartphone accessory.

The DJI Osmo Pocket is a stabilized camera employing gimbals, just like the camera mount on drones from DJI. The Osmo Pocket can be used by itself for capturing video (or even still photos). However, it can also be paired with a smartphone so that you use the smartphone’s display to preview your video during capture and configure settings.

I’ve found the DJI Osmo Pocket to be an invaluable video capture device that pairs with my smartphone. I use that for capturing video, and then simply use the smartphone by itself for still photos, adding a small tripod when true stabilization is needed.

Today’s Question: There are two settings which seem to remain in Lightroom Classic that I do not like. The Sharpening and Noise Reduction are always on. I do not like either. Is there a way to make the default for these adjustments to be turned off?

Tim’s Quick Answer: You can change the Lightroom Classic default settings either overall or upon importing photos, but that won’t affect images already in your catalog. For images you’ve already imported you would need to apply a preset in batch to change the adjustment settings.

More Detail: The key to applying different default adjustment settings in Lightroom Classic is to create a preset that includes only the adjustments you want to change from the default values. I recommend starting with a “test” image that you’re not concerned about the adjustments for. Then click the Reset button at the bottom of the right panel in the Develop module so that all adjustments are at their defaults.

You can then adjust the settings for any adjustments you’d like to change the defaults for. In this case, for example, you could set the Amount slider under Sharpening to zero and do the same for the Luminance and Color sliders under Noise Reduction.

When you have applied the desired adjustments, click on the plus (+) button to the right of the Presets heading on the left panel and choose Create Preset from the popup menu. In the New Develop Preset dialog enter a meaningful name in the Preset Name field and choose which group to store the preset in from the Group popup.

Next, turn on the checkboxes only for the adjustments you want included in the preset. In the current example you could click the “Check None” button at the bottom-left of the dialog and then turn on the Detail checkbox, which in turn will turn on the checkboxes for Sharpening, Luminance Noise Reduction, and Color Noise Reduction.

You could then apply this preset to images as they are imported by selecting the preset from the Develop Settings popup in the Apply During Import section of the right panel in the Import dialog. If you want to set the preset as the default for all new images so you don’t have to apply it during import, you can select the preset from the Presets submenu on the Global popup in the Raw Defaults section of the Presets tab in the Preferences dialog.

Both of the above options will only apply the preset you’ve created to new images upon import. If you want to update the settings for existing images you’ll need to apply the preset to those images. You can even apply the preset to all photos in your entire catalog if you want.

To apply the new preset to all existing photos navigate to the “All Photographs” collection in the Catalog section on the left panel in the Library module. In the grid view display make sure the Library Filter bar is set to “None” so all images are displayed. Select all images by choosing Edit > Select All from the menu. Then go to the Quick Develop section on the right panel in the Library module and choose the applicable preset from the Saved Preset popup. That will apply the preset to all selected images, but only applying the adjustments you actually included when you created the preset.

Today’s Question: Which monitor and keyboard would you recommend to work with the new MacBook Pro when at home with your desk setup?

Tim’s Quick Answer: If I were buying a new monitor today it would be the BenQ SW240 (https://bhpho.to/3s9zB79). For a keyboard I prefer the feel of Apple keyboards, and so I use their wireless keyboard that includes the numeric keypad (https://bhpho.to/3BJhOak).

More Detail: As I’ve noted in previous answers, I use a laptop (MacBook Pro, https://bhpho.to/3oJPM91) as my exclusive computer, without using a desktop computer. However, when I’m home I very much prefer to have a configuration that makes my laptop feel like a desktop.

To start with, I prefer to have a larger monitor alongside my laptop. I use the external monitor as my primary display, with my laptop serving as a secondary display to the side. If I were buying a new monitor today it would be the BenQ SW240 (https://bhpho.to/3s9zB79), and I currently use an older model BenQ display. I personally prefer the 24-inch size since I tend to be relatively close to the display. I also favor displays that are as close as possible to covering the full Adobe RGB color space. I prefer a resolution of 1920×1080, but some photographers may prefer a higher-resolution 4K display.

I happen to prefer the feel of Apple’s keyboards, and I prefer a keyboard with a numeric keypad. I therefore use the Apple Magic Keyboard with a numeric keypad (https://bhpho.to/3BJhOak), though there is a smaller model available without the numeric keypad (https://bhpho.to/3Hf4qvw).

I also prefer using a mouse rather than the trackpad build into my laptop, so I use an Apple Magic Mouse 2 (https://bhpho.to/3uydSYn). I supplement the mouse with a Xencelabs Pen Tablet, preferring the medium size with the Quick Keys bundle option (https://bhpho.to/3sbRLW8).

Today’s Question: My laptop is always plugged in to power, but I am wondering if that is causing damage to the battery? I have heard conflicting advice on this – some say it is best to allow the battery to drain down to 20 or 30% then recharge, others say you can leave it plugged in all the time. And is it best to turn the computer off every day – or is it okay to always have it on (but sleeping)?

Tim’s Quick Answer: In general, I recommend allowing a laptop battery to partially discharge once every week or two. I also recommend restarting the computer every couple of weeks, though shutting it down completely is not necessary.

More Detail: Allowing a battery to periodically discharge can help ensure the battery is able to hold a higher level of charge over a longer period of time. I therefore recommend allowing batteries to discharge to a moderately low level at least periodically.

It is understandable that this topic can be a bit confusing. First off, for today’s lithium-based batteries this issue of batteries losing some of their power if they aren’t discharged periodically is not anywhere near as significant an issue as it used to be for older battery technologies such as nickel metal hydride batteries. It is still an issue, however.

Batteries do have a somewhat limited number of charge/discharge cycles before the effectively wear out. However, this is not likely to be a significant issue for most users, as the battery would likely be replaced before this were to become a problem.

The more likely issue is a decrease in total battery capacity if it is not discharged periodically. This is an issue I have faced myself over the years, since I use my laptop primarily as a desktop replacement, and therefore tend to keep it plugged in much more than I should. My wife, on the other hand, almost always works with her laptop not plugged in to power. Over time my laptop battery has the top power level diminished considerably more than my wife’s laptop.

If you make sure to let the laptop battery discharge to a relatively low level (around 20%) every couple of weeks, you’ll help ensure the battery is able to hold a higher level of charge.

Shutting down the computer isn’t necessary, though it can be helpful to restart periodically just to clear out memory that wasn’t released, clear caches, and otherwise give the computer a bit of a reset. I recommend restarting at least every couple of weeks, or more often if the computer doesn’t seem to be performing normally.

Today’s Question: I know you use and recommend Backblaze. The drive that I wish to back is LARGE (8TB). And that is not my only drive. According to their FAQ page, backing up something this size will take MONTHS — perhaps 4-6 months. That is pretty daunting. Is there any alternative? Can you send them a drive, or large portions of the drive rather than uploading via the internet?

Tim’s Quick Answer: The short answer here is “no”, by virtue of the Personal Backup service from Backblaze (https://timgrey.me/cloudbackup) not offering an option other than to back up your data via an internet connection. However, Backblaze does offer their B2 Cloud Storage service at a higher price, and with the option to send your initial data via hard drive.

More Detail: One of the key features of an online backup is that it employs an internet connection to transfer your data to servers so that you have a backup copy of your data in a remote location, wherever those servers may happen to be.

Of course, the fact that this type of backup is an “online” backup means that transferring your data requires an internet connection, and that can require a considerable amount of time depending on both your own internet connection speed and the speed at which the online backup will actually receive the data.

My photos currently consume about 8 terabytes of data, for example. Using the connection speed test from Backblaze (https://www.backblaze.com/speedtest#af9pdk) I found that my data could upload at around 6 Mbps (megabits per second). That would require about four months of upload time to back up all of my photos.

That said, once you’ve completed the initial online backup the later backup updates happen quickly. So, if you backup your photos locally in the meantime, it isn’t a terrible idea to let Backblaze work in the background for an extended period of time until the full online backup is completed.

I should add that Backblaze does offer a service that allows you to have a hard drive sent to you that you transfer data to, then ship the drive back so the files are added to your online storage. But this is only part of their “B2 Cloud Storage” backup option. They require a $3,000 deposit for the hard drive and a $75 shipping fee. With this B2 plan you also pay a price per gigabyte per month rather than a lower flat fee.

For the personal backup solution, the only option is to use an Internet connection, which obviously can be slow. However, I think this is still a good option, even though for many photographers just getting started with Backblaze it will be quite some time before their initial backup is actually completed.